Click, no catch
Listen for a sharp spark, then check burner ports and alignment. If gas odor appears before ignition, close the supply, open the lid, and leave the area until the smell clears.
Startup problems that look bigger than they are
No flame often comes from a blocked path, not a dead grill.
If the igniter clicks but nothing catches, look for gas supply first on propane models: tank valve open, regulator reset after a fast valve opening, hose routed without sharp bends, burner ports clear of rust flakes or spider webs. On charcoal, a chimney that smokes but never glows usually means damp briquettes, cramped newspaper, or bottom vents closed by ash. A grill that lights then dies can be starving for air or fuel, so watch the exact moment it fails. Delayed ignition, booming gas light off, or repeated clicking with fuel smell is a stop signal, not a test to repeat.
Lights, then fades
A flame that starts blue and shrinks often points to regulator lockup on gas or restricted airflow on charcoal. Note outdoor temperature, tank level and vent position before changing parts.
Boom at startup
A delayed whoof means fuel collected before it lit. Shut the grill off, keep the lid open, inspect for leaks or blockage, and do not keep retrying the igniter.
Heat problems after the grill is running
Uneven heat has patterns, and patterns narrow the cause.
Map where food cooks too fast or barely browns. One cold corner on a gas grill can be a clogged burner tube, while a whole row running weak suggests supply pressure or a manifold issue. Charcoal heat that is fierce over the chimney side and faint elsewhere is usually arrangement, not mystery. Flare ups that rise when fatty food lands are normal in short bursts; tall flames that keep returning after moving food mean grease buildup needs attention. Keep notes for two cooks before replacing anything, because wind, lid habits and grate temperature can imitate failure.
One cold zone
Compare flames with controls matched. A single weak burner often shows uneven port flame, rust at crossover tubes or grease bridging that normal brushing did not reach.
Hot then cool swings
Temperature that surges after opening the lid is normal. Temperature that drops and never recovers can mean low fuel, ash choking coals, damaged burners or a thermometer reading only the lid space.